“…who knew that gnocchi are at their most delectable not when boiled, but instead, when pan fried in olive oil and butter to a beauteous crispy brown?!”
Gnocchi are great, but somehow I always found their odd texture combination of chewy on the inside and faintly slimy on the outside, a little off-putting. Also, I bought into the idea that pre-packaged, shelf-stable gnocchi is an absolute no-no, and no self-respecting cooking enthusiast would be caught dead with such a vile betrayal of all that is holy about pasta in her shopping cart or pantry. So, I never took the trouble to make gnocchi because it did seem like trouble! This brilliant recipe by New York Times Cooking Contributor, Ali Slagle completely turned the tables on all that I thought I knew about gnocchi. I apparently knew nothing. Jon Snow would be proud.
Most notable in my gnocchi ignorance was this–who knew that gnocchi are at their most delectable not when boiled, but instead, when pan fried in olive oil and butter to a beauteous crispy brown?! Freshly made gnocchi apparently do not crisp-up as beautifully as shelf-stable gnocchi, so slacker-types (like me), who dare to keep such pasta perversions as pre-packaged gnocchi in their pantry, can now take pride and revel in their slacker ways.
Although you can certainly use a non-stick skillet for this recipe, I usually prefer to use this enameled, cast iron braising pan from Le Creuset or a stainless steel All-Clad pan, as both seem to provide better caramelization and browning. The drawback, however, is slightly less easy clean-up, but if your pans are well-seasoned, it shouldn’t be much of an issue.
The other beguiling thing about this recipe is its dazzling simplicity. Only seven ingredients. Two really, if you take into account that many of the ingredients are regularly stocked in most kitchens. Also, the total time it takes to put this dish on the table is about 20 minutes. Two ingredients. Twenty minutes. End result: delectable, crispy-outside, pillowy-inside gnocchi tossed in a velvety, nutty sauce of browned butter with plenty of crunchy-tender brussels sprouts–which provide the perfect, pleasantly bitter complement.
Look at that beautiful browning! It’s taken me many years of practice, but finally, as a 55 year-old, I fully understand the importance of browning proteins and veggies in optimizing flavor. Although I deeply appreciate the tasty results of the processes of caramelization and the Maillard reaction, I cannot claim to fully understand the science behind these processes.
The recipe calls for a half teaspoon of honey tossed in at the end, which is lovely. Although sometimes, as suggested by the helpful recipe reviewers on the New York Times Cooking site, I swap out honey for a teaspoon of balsamic glaze. Once I did both! I haven’t yet decided which finishing flavor I like best. In the meantime, I’ll happily keep making this recipe and likely stay quite contented with my indecision.
crispy gnocchi with brussels sprouts & browned butter
INGREDIENTS
1 pound brussels sprouts (or cruciferous vegetables like broccoli, cauliflower or even cabbage)
1 lemon
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and black pepper
½ teaspoon red-pepper flakes
1 (18-ounce) package shelf-stable or refrigerated potato gnocchi (I’ve had great results with both Gia Russa and DeLallo brand)
6 tablespoons butter, sliced into 6 pieces
½ teaspoon honey or 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar or glaze (or both!)
Grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano, for serving
PREPARATION
Trim and halve the brussels sprouts (quarter unusually large sprouts). Using a semi-coarse grater (like a microplane), zest lemon until you have about two teaspoons.
In a large (preferably 12-inch) skillet, heat 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high. Add the brussels sprouts, season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper, then arrange the brussels sprouts in an even layer, cut-side down. Scatter the lemon zest over the top and cook, undisturbed (this is important…do not move them in the pan), until the brussels sprouts are well browned underneath, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the red-pepper flakes, stir and cook until the brussels sprouts are crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl.
In the same skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium-high. Break up any gnocchi that are stuck together, add them to the pan and cook, covered and undisturbed (again, important!), until golden brown on one side, 2 to 4 minutes. Add the butter and honey (and/or balsamic vinegar, if using), season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until the butter is golden, nutty smelling and foaming, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the brussels sprouts until warmed through. Serve with grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano.
Recipe adapted from Ali Slagle’s Crisp Gnocchi With Brussels Sprouts & Browned Butter recipe on the New York Times Cooking website. Click here for the original recipe.
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All text and photos by Stacey.
This looks fantastic! Also off topic … but I love the fork in the photo!!
I love those forks, too! Only have two of them. I love those plates even more though.